Mount. Fuji Part 2

I completely underestimated how cold it would be higher up the mountain. Luckily someone was kind enough to lend me their waterproof trousers. I also underestimated just how water proof my bag was (not very). But no one could estimate how bad the following events would turn out to be....

Rain came at regular intervals and as we got higher, the rain seemed to get heavier. But absolutely no one was deterred, the philipinos were singing raucously and laughing and joking nonstop. It was an excellent example of their happy go lucky spirit and it was great to join in with their japes. I felt like an honorary philipino and really admired their resistance to the elements. Coming from a country that is hot all year round they are not accustomed to cold rain and biting winds.

At 3000meters there is a cheer as the rain stops again. This time the rain stops for almost three quarters of an hour, but darkness is descending so we only had a limited time to enjoy the view. Below a small town begins to light up showing off its intricate infra-structure.

We thought that was it for the weather but MT Fuji had other plans and as we went uphill everything else went downhill... At this point my shoes (and many others) have leaked and every time we take a break my feet get colder and colder. I also didn't bring any gloves (like a few others). I feel a bit stupid for being so under prepared and (admittedly) defiant of the guidelines.

After fumbling around for torches at one of the huts we set off again. The small town can barely be seen as heavy clouds are beginning to set in. Walking round one of the winding corners everyone feels a sudden, vicious blast of wind, blowing dirt in eyes and causing many to lose balance and cling to the mountain side. For the next two hours it is a truly dangerous and lonely slog as heads are kept down and everyone tries to maintain balance in a single file line that hugs the mountainside on every turn.

Walking in the dark, with cold wet feet, with life threatening wind blowing in every direction was not how I had envisioned my climb of MT. Fuji. But of course there was no going back now (not that I felt that way anyway). It was an epic challenge and the utter sense of relief felt by everyone when we finally reached our hut was tangible. It didn't matter that everything in my bag was soaked it was just nice to have shelter, some dinner and rest.

But MT. Fuji still had other plans. After being "sent" to bed by our supervisors at 9 o clock we found it very difficult to get to sleep and there was a lot of chatter until 12 in our communal hall. Wind is rapping on the roof but I am quite taken with the hut, it is like we are on a ship or something. There is definitely a sense of camaraderie and I feel very satisfied with the way we handled the last couple of hours. Then comes the inevitable snoring. I finally get to sleep at 1 AM......

2AM : I am awoken by a horrendous gargling sound. To be blunt it sounds like someone is dry vomiting. But this noise goes on and on until there are voices and lights in the next room. Then the sound of an oxygen canister being breathed from heavily. Curiously I lean as far as i can off my bunk bed to look through the open doorway. A white haired gentleman is laying bare chested and in the process of fighting a heart attack. It just so happens we have a white haired gentleman in our party, who I was more than slightly worried about his condition for the climb. I jump back into bed hoping it will all be OK. It isn't... another look and the man has gone into shock, a machine counts out beeps whilst someone carries out CPR. By this point a few of us are awake. I can see the worried expression on the faces of those situated by the door. The sound of a vehicle can be heard outside I am amazed at the speed they were able to get it up here. The man is carried out and everyone is silent.

3AM we are all told to retreat back to bed because the weather is still too rough. But the drama continues. I see our Canadian companion run for the doorway suddenly crouch and then throw up. He is suffering from mountain sickness. The air up here is extremely thin and I can slowly feel myself getting nausous.

Finally I am able to sleep for 3 and half hours and awake to find that, to my relief, our elderly supervisor is alive and well and sitting eating breakfast!! I wonder if he is a ghost or if it was all some terrible nightmare.

The weather now doesn't look too bad. And although there have been rumours that we might not be going to the top, there is no sign of any wind or rain, but there is very thick cloud. I regain my hopes of going to the top and setting out of the door I am amazed to see that we are heading for the descending route!!!!!

Only 200 meters to go and we were heading down!!! This was incredibly frustrating. Every step wreaked of failure. At one point the guide even scouted ahead up the ascending route just to check again, but came back shaking his head. Everything suddenly felt like a complete waste of time, effort and life....

We found out later that the unfortunate gentleman was of Korean origin and that sadly he lost his life 10 hours after being taken down the mountain.

Mount Fuji was in actual fact a huge disappointment for so many reasons...